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Local Guides
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THE LAST SUPPER AT VERSES
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by Denise De La Franier
November 4 —10, 2004 |
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Verses Restaurant
182 Victoria St N.
Kitchener
744–0144
Tues–Sat:11:30am–2:30pm, 5–9:30pm
9 out of 10
When I set foot inside Verses Restaurant last Friday night, I was
relieved that I wore my Sunday best. Still, I wasn’t exactly
prepared for the level of formality we encountered inside this
former church.
I have to confess that I had a difficult time keeping my
musings on the potentially controversial surroundings separate
from my opinion on the quality of the service and the food. The
New Apostolic Church was built in 1946, and purchased last year
by Brett Shantz and Debbie McFadden who decided to maintain
the original feel. The exterior looks pretty much unchanged and
the inside still exudes an atmosphere of worship. I could write
quite the rant on the broader social and religious implications of
this, but really, it all comes down to the food.
That said, I’d still like to describe the decor, which I found
beautiful, if unsettling — I spent much of the evening watching
the all–seeing eye that was watching me back. The place seems
dusky and hushed upon entry, and there are imposing, colourful
Lamb of God stained glass windows situated above the
red–carpeted area where the alter once stood. Along the side
walls is arch–shaped stained glass in a spectacular blue and green
diamond pattern. There are dark hardwood floors, regal,
high–backed chairs in red velvet, and the tables are draped in
crisp off–white linens.
The menu is filled with obscure–sounding delights, like
Lobster Roulade, Foie Gras, Guinea Hen, and Osso Bucco. Prices
are significant: starters range in price from $7 to $21, and
entrees from $29 to $41, so you’ll want to budget if you’re
planning to visit.
We nibbled on a selection of different breads while waiting
for our appetizers. My wild mushroom soup ($7) was garnished
with a thin slice of “potato tuile” and “chive foam.” It had a light
creamy base and was loaded with mushrooms that thankfully
didn’t taste too woodsy. My mate’s baby spinach salad ($9) was
superb, with whole leaves tossed in a buttermilk sun dried tomato
dressing, stacked atop three generous, log–shaped portions of
local goat cheese, and sprinkled with Parma proscuitto.
For mains, I chose the Scottish Salmon ($29), a “nori
wrapped pan–seared fillet served with jasmine rice, sauteed baby
bok choy and oyster mushrooms with wasabi paint and a honey
coriander glaze.” My mate ordered the hemp and pistachio
encrusted Pork Tenderloin ($29), which was served with “potato
dumpling, double smoked bacon braised Brussels sprouts and an
apple birch syrup demi glaze.” Each dish had a stunning
presentation and heavenly, melt–in–your–mouth flavours. Every
now and again, it’s nice to dine like a deity.
For dessert, we shared Chocolate Molten Cake ($9). On one
side of the plate there was a small scoop of chestnut honey ice
cream resting on a disk of cake and garnished with a wafer of
drizzle chocolate. On the other was a small, hollowed out serving
of bittersweet cake filled with a warm, rich, chocolaty valrhona
center and dusted with confectioner’s sugar. If there is a God, this
is what she’d eat.
And just in case we hadn’t had enough chocolate, two
minted chocolate truffles arrived a bit later along with the hefty
tab. Suddenly, a 15 per cent tip equalled half a tank of gas.
The service throughout the meal was very attentive and very
formal. The half dozen uniformed servers watched over our table
like guardian angels, periodically topping off our water glasses,
removing the unneeded silverware, and generally assuring our
complete satisfaction.
My companion and I joked about how wily it would be if our
bill arrived in a collection basket — it didn’t — and agreed this
was not the type of place where we’d be inclined to hang around
for after dinner drinks. I think I would have felt at ease if the
atmosphere had been more restaurant–y and less churchy. But on
the basis of the food alone, I think I’d die satisfied if this were my
last supper.
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